(Designer: Gregg Ruth)

"The jewelry you wear at your wedding, is the most meaningful jewelry you have," notes Linda Stark of Harry Winston in New York. "It is so important because these are the heirlooms of your future." Stark notices brides choosing straight column dresses and brides choosing full romantic ball gowns will then agree on similar wedding jewelry-classic diamonds and pearls.

Although 18K white gold remains popular, platinum has become the preferred metal for setting diamonds. Yellow gold is now primarily used alone in wedding bands or set with rare canary yellow diamonds, a naturally occurring fancy diamond of deep yellow color.

Dan MacDonald of Three Golden Apples in Newport, Rhode Island, explains that jewelers have always known that diamonds were best shown in white settings, but were unable to make gold white as we do today. Platinum was an unknown metal until the 20th century, so in antique settings silver was laid over gold to set diamonds. Wedding bands, regardless of color, are making their own stand-alone fashion statement, being worn with or without the engagement ring for daytime. Wide Christian Bauer wedding bands mix color and shading, creating the illusion of smooth intricate banding. Solid dimensional rings by Armadani feature unique molded and hand-engraved designs, sometimes set with tiny diamonds. Square, ascher, radiant and emerald cut diamonds have become important in wedding bands, mirroring their popularity in engagement rings. The diamond eternity band composed of a half or full circle of diamonds has become so popular that one frequently is not enough.

Eternity bands may also feature patterns of diamonds mixed with rubies or sapphires. They may be worn along either side of the wedding band and may even be soldered to it joining three rings into one. Alternatively, eternity bands may be used along either side of the engagement ring. Several eternity bands of different sizes and settings may also be stacked together. Noting that it is not uncommon to see a bride wearing her mother and/or grandmother's wedding band in addition to her own, Stark observes, "You almost see a family's history in jewelry." She warns, however, against stacking platinum rings beside gold, explaining that platinum's hardness will gradually abrade gold. In engagement rings, Harry Winston recommends low light mountings with light tapered prongs that are comfortable to wear and minimize the appearance of the metal, focusing the eye on the diamonds. Winston's newest ring returns to the popular classic round-cut diamond but adds a contemporary signature setting lending the stone a squared off appearance from above. The basket of the ring is formed by the letters H and W, one on either side of the diamond. The top of the letters form the prongs that hold the diamond, lending the ring a clean modern look.

MacDonald also recommends simple mountings for engagement rings. Explaining that the value of a ring lies in the center stone and not the setting, he advises couples to emphasize that stone and then change to a more elaborate setting or larger accent stones as finances allow. Stark is noticing a trend toward larger center stones, estimating that their most popular size solitaire is now about two karats. Vintage jewelry remains popular with renaissance styles, and art deco and art nouveau predominating. Modern designs are frequently reinterpretations of these classic looks, although Stark notes that art nouveau tends to be more variable in its popularity than other classic looks. Filigreed Victorian and square-cut Edwardian designs are also becoming classics.

South Sea pearls and diamonds are the choice for necklaces and earrings. Pearls are being worn at choker length (right on the collarbone) or much longer in single, double or even triple strands that do not have to match or nest together. South Sea pearls are larger than typical cultured pearls and should be round and smooth with high luster, reflecting your face like a mirror. Cream and ros are the more popular tones. Delicate necklaces of cultured pearls mixed with gold are also popular for brides and for maids' gifts. Stark observes many couples choosing gifts for each other or for their attendants that can be engraved such as watches or rings or cuff links. Diamond necklaces, earrings and tiaras are popular for weddings. Harry Winston even carries diamond tiaras that convert to necklaces for use after the wedding is over. If such luxury items are in your dreams, but not your budget, do what the movie stars do. Winston loans diamond tiaras as a service to its customers; MacDonald will rent them along with diamond necklaces on request.

Small quality jewelers build their reputation on customer service and craftsmanship in creating custom pieces or making repairs or modifications of existing pieces. Both jewelry firms relish the challenge and creativity of custom design work. MacDonald especially prides himself on his designer's ability to create wax models of custom pieces while the client is still on a short holiday in Newport. Stark also emphasizes Harry Winston's ability to "turn on a dime" with their own in-house designers and diamond cutters. Stark adds, "We love designing special things for people, it's fun. We can do the odd and unusual. We can live out people's fantasies. There are no constraints here."