When the ancient kings of Portugal sought refuge from the summer heat, they braved the rugged roads of the Serra de Sintra to reach the cliffside retreat of Sintra, just north of the capital in Lisbon. Even today, the dense forests and twisting roads make driving through the Serra a challenge. But like all great treasures, Sintra is well worth the voyage of discovery.

Peering over the old town is the 8th-century Castelo dos Moros, built by the Moors, retaken by the Christians in the 12th century, and today a national historic treasure. But Sintra's most memorable feature may be the twin spires of the Royal Palace, which far more resemble a pair of old-fashioned milk jugs than any great symbol of state. And with good reason: despite their prominence in the profile of Sintra's old town, the white towers are simply the chimneys of the royal kitchens, where great banquets were prepared for visiting kings.

Far less humble is the Palacio de Pena, an ornate and eclectic clifftop palace built in the 19th century on the ruins of an old monastery. Like the Royal Palace, the Palacio de Pena allows visitors to explore its lavishly appointed chambers and halls.

Winding streets-paved with cobblestones in Sintra Vila-connect the town's three hillside neighborhoods, full of small shops, museums, and wooded parks. For foot-weary explorers, there are few better sights than Sintra's numerous public fountains, which provide fresh, pure spring water to residents and visitors alike. In the hills and woods surrounding Sintra are a variety of elegant quintas, or country estates, some of which have been converted into luxury guest accommodations and restaurants.

Grand examples include the Penha Longa Hotel and Golf Resort and the historic Lawrence's Hotel, which first threw open its doors to guests in 1764. For fairytale romance, the Tivoli Palacio de Setais is an 18th-century castle whose muted pink walls stand in sharp contrast with the blue Atlantic on one side, and the Palacio de Pena on the other.Honeymooners will love the secluded location and candlelit dinners in the Panoramic restaurant, overlooking the hotel's traditional topiary gardens.

Perhaps the best way to experience Portugal and its people is to stay at a pousada, luxurious bed and breakfasts found all across the country. On the road between Lisbon and Sintra, the 26-room Dona Maria I Pousada is located in the former headquarters of the Royal Guard of the Court in the Palace of Queluz. From Sintra, the sometimes rugged Iberian...

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